Note: This trip took place between May 7 and 10, 2025. Exchange rates as of the date of the trip:
100 Tenge = 7.5 Turkish Lira
1 U.S. Dollar = 38.5 Turkish Lira
🇰🇿 General Information About Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan, officially known as the Republic of Kazakhstan, is the ninth-largest country in the world by land area. It borders Russia to the north, China to the east, and Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Turkmenistan to the south. As of 2025, its population is approximately 20 million. Kazakhs make up 70% of the country’s population, while Russians account for nearly 20%. Particularly following the Stalin era, policies of Russification encouraged the Russian population to settle in other Soviet republics. After the dissolution of the Soviet Union, there was a significant decline in the Russian population in Kazakhstan. Today, Kazakhstan is one of the countries with the largest Russian populations outside of Russia. The remainder of the population consists of minorities such as Kyrgyz, Uzbeks, Tatars, Uyghurs, and Germans. In 1763, Empress Catherine II, who was of German descent herself, invited Germans to the empire to engage in agriculture. The Germans who settled along the Volga River were brought together and granted autonomy upon the establishment of the Soviet Union. The Germans in Kazakhstan are those who were deported from the Volga German Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic during the Stalin era. When Hitler invaded Russia during World War II, the Volga Germans were viewed as internal enemies and deported.
The country’s current capital is Astana. For a time, the city’s name was changed to Nur-Sultan. However, Almaty, which served as the country’s capital for many years, remains the country’s de facto center. In honor of Nursultan Nazarbayev, who served as president after the dissolution of the Soviet Union and remained in office until 2019, the city’s name was changed to Nursultan in 2019. Following public backlash and the January 2022 protests, the name was changed back to Astana in 2022.
The January 2022 protests in Kazakhstan are significant. The protests began following a relatively small price hike for liquefied petroleum gas (LPG). What started as protests over economic issues took on a political dimension. Large-scale protests took place, particularly in Almaty. President Kassym-Jomart Tokayev labeled the demonstrations as terrorist acts and requested assistance from the CSTO. The CSTO, or Collective Security Treaty Organization, is a military alliance established under Russian leadership that includes some former Soviet states. The organization is a Russian entity, composed of Russian troops, and is intervening in another country’s internal affairs for the first time in its history. These characteristics make this event particularly noteworthy. The LPG price hike at the start of the protests was actually just a superficial trigger. The real causes are the political situation in the country, corruption scandals, and the ongoing pressure exerted by the Nazarbayev family. The protests have grown so large because the people are dissatisfied with these issues. Ultimately, the people are getting what they want. Arrests for corruption have begun, the Nazarbayev family’s influence is being curbed, and Astana is reverting to its former name. The LPG price hike is also being reversed.
One of the Soviet republics established during the Soviet era was the Kazakh SSR. Founded in 1936, the Kazakh SSR gained full independence in 1991 following the dissolution of the Soviet Union. As in other Soviet republics, nationalist movements developed in the Kazakh SSR, and uprisings began among the people. Most recently, in 1986, the appointment of a Russian to lead the Kazakh SSR caused the uprisings to escalate, ultimately leading to independence.
The country’s economy relies on its natural resources. Rich in oil, natural gas, uranium, and coal, the country sustains itself through the direct export or processed export of these resources. In addition, grain production and livestock farming are also widespread.
🏛️ Monuments and Buildings
The microdistricts, Brezhnevkas, and Khrushchyovkas visible as the plane descends over Almaty suggest that the city offers a rich architectural experience.
Panfilov Park, or more formally known as the Park of the 28 Panfilov Soldiers, is the most important park in the city center. You could call this the heart of the city. It is named after General Ivan Panfilov and the 28 soldiers of the 316th Division under his command, who fought heroically against the Nazis during World War II. These 28 soldiers were Kazakh and Kyrgyz, and they played a crucial role in halting the Nazis’ advance on Moscow. At the center of the park stands the Victory Monument, with an eternal flame in front of it, and just a short distance away is another monument dedicated to soldiers who lost their lives in the Afghanistan War. In fact, these two monuments are often built side by side in Soviet cities. Beneath the Victory Monument, Ivan Panfilov’s famous words are inscribed in Russian: “There is a Great Russia, but there is no retreat—Moscow is behind us!” Another important structure within the park is Zenkov Cathedral. Built in 1907, it is one of the world’s largest wooden structures. During the Soviet era, it was used as a museum as part of the policy of secularization, but today it is once again functioning as a cathedral.
The Abay Metro Station is located on Abay Boulevard. At the end of Abay Boulevard lies Abay Square. In the square stands a monument to Abay Kunanbayev. When you arrive at the square and look at the monument and the surrounding area, it immediately becomes clear that a statue of Lenin once stood here. However, contrary to what one might first assume, this Lenin statue was not removed after the dissolution of the Soviet Union but was taken down in 1960 and replaced with the Abay statue. Starting in the late 1950s, the Soviet government began giving more prominence to local figures in cities, particularly literary and cultural figures. This monument was placed here as part of that initiative.
The building behind the Abay Statue is an indoor concert and event hall now known as the Palace of the Republic. The building was constructed and opened in 1970 in honor of Lenin’s 100th birthday. It was originally named the Lenin Palace of Culture.
You can reach Kök Töbe—or Green Hill, as it’s known in English—by taking the funicular that departs right next to Abay Square. There is also a road leading to the summit. Just like Mtatsminda Park in Tbilisi, the summit features a recreational area and a TV tower. The funicular and TV tower were built in the 1970s and have been a popular destination for locals ever since. The TV tower is a quintessential Soviet-era structure in terms of its architecture. It is one of the tallest TV towers in Central Asia.
Located on Dostyk Boulevard near Abay Square, the Hotel Kazakhstan is one of the most iconic buildings in Soviet Kazakhstan. A prime example of modern Soviet architecture, the hotel was built in the 1970s, is regarded as a feat of Soviet engineering, and has been operating as a hotel ever since.
There are many opera and ballet schools and theaters in Almaty. The most famous of these is undoubtedly the Abay Opera and Ballet Theater. The building, located on Kabanbay Batyr Street, was constructed between 1936 and 1941. Despite the outbreak of World War II, the building was completed, and the first performance was staged in 1941. The building is a prime example of Stalinist-era architecture. Originally named the Kazakh State Opera and Ballet Hall, it adopted its current name in 1945.
The Nedelka Fountain, located right next to the Abay Opera House, is also a fountain and park that has existed since the Soviet era. “Nedelka” means “week” in Russian. The seven arches represent the seven days of the week. Originally, a park with 12 arches was planned to represent the 12 months of the year, but due to space constraints, it was built with 7 arches instead. Completed in the early 1970s, the park has served as a gathering place for the public ever since. Young couples, in particular, used to meet here on weekends.
Located west of Panfilov Park, across from the Tokash Bokin Monument, the Arasan Bathhouse is Kazakhstan’s most famous bathhouse complex. In 1982, the old bathhouse on the site was demolished and this complex was built in its place. “Arasan” means “bathhouse” or “spa” in Kazakh. While the building bears Soviet influences, it is a classic example of Central Asian Turkic architecture. The complex includes a bathhouse, a sauna, and a Russian bath (banya), and you can purchase any supplies or products you might need inside at the shops located at the entrance. From aromatic oils to towels, soaps, slippers, and bundles of leaves used in sauna rituals, you can find everything in these shops.
Medeu is a high-altitude ice rink built during the Stalin era between 1949 and 1951. The Medeu region, where it is located, lies at the foothills of the Zailiyskiy Alatau Mountains and is a region rich in opportunities for outdoor sports. Hikes to many of the surrounding peaks begin from here. The cable car to Shymbulak, Kazakhstan’s famous ski resort, also departs from here. There is a small tourism office in the café next to the rink. I noticed that the brochures I obtained from this office—covering the mountains, hiking trails, and the city—were very well-prepared.
Kök Bazar, also known as the Green Market, is an authentic market located in the city center, near Panfilov Park. You can find everything from meat products to nuts and dairy goods at the market. Outside the market, you can also find textiles and souvenirs for sale. You’ll encounter vendors from all across Central Asia. The nut vendors, in particular, are very friendly, and everyone wants to let you sample something. One vendor we visited at his stall offered us pecans and macadamia nuts. It’s a popular stop for both locals and tourists. The site where the building stands has been used as a marketplace for many years. There was even a marketplace here as far back as 1875. As is well known, Almaty is located in an earthquake-prone region. The structure sustained significant damage after earthquakes, and the current market was built during the Soviet era. The market took on its current form in the 1970s.
Circuses held an important place in the Soviet Union. The state viewed these circuses as both a form of entertainment and a propaganda tool. All circuses were affiliated with an organization called SoyuzGosTsirk. The circus in Almaty is one of the most significant ones. It was built in the early 1970s and has continued to operate as a circus to this day.
🎤 Encounters and Conversations
A Turkish-American couple also joined us on the Charyn Canyon–Kolsai Lakes tour: Mr. Serdar and Ms. Linda. The couple has been living in Almaty for over four years. Throughout the trip, we had frequent opportunities to get together and talk about the region. In January 2022, a price hike on LPG (not a major hike) by the Kazakh government sparked large-scale protests across the country. We learned from Mr. Serdar that Russian soldiers were patrolling the city to help calm the situation.
During the tour, we also had the opportunity to chat with our tour guides. We asked them why everyone spoke Russian first, even though the country’s official language is Kazakh. They explained that young people prioritize Russian because of their concerns about the future and their belief that Russian will open doors to opportunities. When we asked about Kazakhstan’s connection to the Turkic world, they explained that Kazakhstan is sandwiched between major powers like Russia and China in the north and south, and that its situation is somewhat complicated. We understood that, unlike from a Turkish perspective, they are not very familiar with concepts like Turkic unity or Turan, and that these ideas are not widely discussed in the country.
People who found out we were from Türkiye usually smiled at first and then used terms like “brother” or “sister” and acted very warmly. However, since there aren’t many similarities between Turkish spoken in Türkiye and Turkish spoken in Kazakhstan, communication in Turkish doesn’t go much beyond saying “thank you” and smiling.
Onay! is a transportation card. We got off at Abay Metro Station to get one. According to what we read online, the card could be obtained from the kiosks inside the station. However, the lady at the kiosk did not speak any English at all and seemed a bit grumpy. We bought the card for 1000 tenge. The part we couldn’t figure out was how to load balance onto the card. When we were leaving the metro, we asked three Kazakh young people for help. Thankfully, we managed to communicate with broken English and the help of Google Translate. There is a centralized payment system in the country called Kaspy. To load balance onto the transportation card, you need Kaspy. Another method is loading balance through the Onay! app, but for that you also need a Kazakhstan phone number.The Kazakh young people we met told us that even if there is no balance on the card, we can still show the card and pay the bus driver in cash. They also scanned the card using their own app and showed us that there was 200 tenge balance on it. This seemed a bit strange, but we were able to take the bus to Medeu by paying 200 tenge per person (one from the card and one in cash).
We boarded the Medeu bus across from Hotel Kazakhstan. An attendant boarded the bus at a random stop and began checking whether passengers had paid. When it was our turn, we explained in English that we had swiped a card for one person and paid the driver in cash for the other. After the attendant left, a young couple standing next to us turned around and asked in English where we were from. They were Russian. When I mentioned that I had visited St. Petersburg in 2017, the man said something like, “Those were good times.” They told us they had come to Almaty after the war. They said they were from a small town between Moscow and St. Petersburg. They were friendly and sincere.
🍛 Food and Drink
- First Day
In the morning, we had breakfast at Traveller’s Coffee, a Russian chain. We paid $18 for two omelets, a cup of tea, and an orange juice. It was nice to see Assam tea on the menu. It was served as loose-leaf tea in a French press and was quite delicious. The omelets were just average. In the evening, we dined at Line Brew, another Russian chain. It was a steakhouse with an interior design that was quintessentially Russian. The waitress insisted we try the ribeye made from Kazakh beef. The total bill came to $72. About 350 grams of meat cost roughly $15. A 10% service charge is generally added at restaurants.
- Second Day
We had breakfast at a café called Cafeteria. The breakfast plates were nice. We paid $42 for a European-style breakfast plate, coffee, tea, and orange juice. In the evening, we dined at a restaurant called Chef, where we ordered a delicious beef stroganoff and a steak; including drinks, dessert, and a service charge, we paid $53. The dessert was a poor-quality Pavlova. The tea, which we assumed was complimentary, and even the lemon that came with it were charged separately.
- Third Day
On the third day, we were on the Charyn Canyon–Kolsai Lakes tour. The lunch served was Central Asian cuisine. We paid a total of 6,000 tenge for a plate of beef pilav (plov) and another plate of beef and carrot mantı. The food was very delicious. The samsas we ate at the rest stops along the way were very reasonably priced but very tasty.
- Fourth Day
In the morning, we paid $25 for a Greek breakfast, tea, and orange juice at a café called Bom Bom, which has a European-style interior. In the evening, we sampled local dishes at a Kyrgyz restaurant called Navat. Navat is often mistaken by tourists for a Kazakh restaurant, but it is actually a Kyrgyz restaurant; since the dishes are similar, it offers dishes from both cuisines. We tried horse meat, as well as local dishes like barsak and mantı here. We paid 30 dollars. We weren’t very satisfied with the food. Barsak was a fried dough dish similar to empty pişi. The mantı, on the other hand, was very similar to the mantı in Azerbaijan. It was much worse compared to the mantı we had eaten in the countryside the previous day. We had laghman noodles, which are from the Uyghur cuisine; they weren’t bad. We also had five-finger horse meat.
🎉 May 7–9: National Holidays
Celebrations for May 7 Defenders of the Motherland Day and May 9 Victory Day were held with great enthusiasm in Panfilov Park. Concerts were held on a stage set up in front of Zenkov Cathedral, and ceremonies were held in front of the eternal flame. Children organized parades dressed in Soviet military uniforms. Vendors around the cathedral sold food, drinks, and Soviet-themed merchandise. The round-the-clock celebrations laid bare just how at peace the people of Kazakhstan are with their Soviet past.
🚕 Transportation
YandexGo is a widely used transportation brand in the city. I call it a transportation brand because it offers not only taxis but also scooters. The YandexGo app shows you how to get from one place to another, along with the prices. During peak hours when taxi fares are high, it can even direct you to public transportation. For taxis, options are available in different segments such as Economy, Comfort, and Comfort+, offering various car types and travel experiences. You can see how much you’ll pay before even calling a taxi. We took a brand-new Kia K5 from the airport to Panfilov Park around 7 a.m. for $5. However, traveling from the same point to the airport around 10 p.m. during a peak hour, even with the Comfort package, cost us around $8–$9. Additionally, buses and trolleybuses are widely used throughout the city. On buses, you can pay either with a physical transit card or digitally by scanning the QR codes inside the vehicle. When the bus pulls up to the stop, all the doors open, and you can board through any door you like. Whether or not you pay is up to you, though an attendant might board the bus at a random stop and go around checking payments one by one, just like in Europe. Additionally, you can use the Almaty metro for a fare of around 100 tenge, or 20 cents. The metro system and stations are new; although construction of the Almaty Metro began during the Soviet era, the first line wasn’t opened until 2011.
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